[ad_1]
All roads in Brittany pass through Rennes! Well, not physically, but for its appeal, they should! Amidst Brittany’s diverse landscapes and charming locales, Rennes, its capital, holds a distinct charm. Its historic city centre promises to delight you with its multifaceted architecture and food culture, stylish boutique hotels, colourful shops, idyllic surroundings and nightlife. Save this article for ideas and inspiration for things to do in Rennes, the heart of Brittany.
Disclosure: Our Rennes itinerary was part of a campaign with Brittany Tourism and Destination Rennes. HDYTI maintains full editorial control of the content published on this site.
Rennes is a fun city to experience!
Whether as part of a Brittany (‘Bretagne’) travel itinerary or as a day or weekend trip from Nantes or Paris (it takes 1 hour and 1 hour 30 mins respectively by high-speed train to get to Rennes), we recommend you experience the city of Rennes.
Part of the appeal of this lively city in northwestern France includes a walkable old city centre, charming cafés, half-timber-framed houses, beautiful parks and sensory food markets. The capital of Brittany is also a good base for coastal excursions to Saint Malo and Mont Saint-Michel.
Its large student population (over 60,000 across a number of universities) gives Rennes a distinctly youthful vibe. This of course translates into lively evenings, fun weekends and a hive of activity across its many bars, restaurants, and public squares.
During the taxi ride from Gare de Rennes train station, a remarkable architectural landmark in its own right, we passed by artistic shop displays, vibrantly decorated cafés, and inviting outdoor terraces. It became instantly clear that we were in a Breton city where fun and creativity are integral to its identity.
HDYTI Tip: Fly into Nantes airport and do a ‘City to Sea’ itinerary that takes you by train (or rental car) from Nantes to Rennes and on to St-Malo. See below for information on planning your Rennes itinerary.
So, let’s dip into this Rennes itinerary of five things to experience and MORE!
#1. Stay in a beautiful boutique hotel – Mama Shelter Rennes
Mama Shelter Rennes, where we stayed during our visit to Rennes, totally lived up to our expectations for affordability, thoughtful interior design, colourful spaces, playful vibes, and good quality food in a boutique hotel.
Known for selecting exciting cities as hosts, Mama Shelter, a French brand and brainchild of Serge Trigano and his sons Jérémie and Benjamin, opened their Rennes location in March 2023.
The rooms are moderately spacious and comfortable. The room interior decor combines minimalism with highlight details such as vibrant colours, whimsical prints and soft textures. Communal spaces are filled with character (we loved the ceiling art and carpet detailing).
Mama Shelter fits perfectly into the lively spirit of Rennes with its array of amenities including spa/pool, retro arcade games, vibrant indoor, rooftop and terrace bars and cheerful social spaces.
HYTIP Tip: We stayed in an ‘XXL Mama room’ that sleeps up to 4 people (perfect for a family). To view current rates and make a booking, visit Mama Shelter, Rennes.
#2. Capture Instagrammable photos on a city centre walk
Setting out from our hotel, we spent two hours exploring the historic centre of Rennes with our art-historian local guide, Madeleine Guyot-Gendron. During an easy walk, she pointed out many of the main attractions with illustrations, anecdotes and a remarkable depth of knowledge that brought them to life.
Lices Square sits right beside Mama Shelter. This allowed us to begin our walking tour learning about how knights once jousted and clashed here during tournaments in ancient times. We would later return to Lices Square for a less bloody and more enjoyable pastime during our visit to Rennes.
Highlights of our walking tour of Rennes included the 15th century city fortifications, the Mordelaises Gate through which Dukes of Brittany would pass on their way to be crowned, the stunning interior of Rennes Cathedral (don’t be deceived by the austere exterior), and the Parliament of Brittany (Palais du Parlement de Bretagne) at Place du Parlement.
The city’s medieval architecture captured our imagination. Surviving a deadly fire in 1720 and the ravages of time, conflict and modernisation, Rennes retains its title of being home to the highest number of preserved timber/half-timbered buildings in Brittany!
HDYTI Tip: Head to Champ-Jacquet Square to capture some of the best and most colourful examples of Rennes’ iconic timber-framed houses.
Rennes has many other interesting historic buildings, one of them being the Art Deco Saint Georges swimming pool (a public pool built in 1926).
Visitors are welcome to marvel at the engaging exterior motifs and the expertly crafted interior mosaics (created by the Odorico family) or take a dip in the thermal pool!
#3. Glide along canals on a lazy afternoon
There’s a fashionable ease about Rennes and its people that we loved. One activity that, for us, encapsulated the city’s easygoing nature was a self-driven electric boat ride along its canals.
These electric boats (Les P’tits Bateaux) are silent, easy to drive (no licence needed) and a great way to observe the city from a different point of view.
Boarding at Canal Saint-Martin and after a 5-minute coaching session and a quick safety inspection, we were soon on our way. Aided by a gentle breeze, we spent the next hour motoring along the water’s still surface, spotting wildlife and waving to locals on leisurely walks and bicycle rides along the banks of the Ille-et-Rance canal.
How to do it: The boats can be booked for 1 hour (from €40 for the 5-seater to €55 for the 7-seater) or longer. For booking information see Les P’tits Bateaux.
#4. Indulge in tradition with Breton galettes and ciders
Wondering what the difference between a crêpe and a galette is? You’re not alone!
A galette (more traditionally called ‘galettes au sarrasin’) is a savoury crêpe (pancake) specifically made from buckwheat. They’re gluten free which is why a ‘Breton galette’ is one of our favourite delicacies whenever we visit Brittany.
As part of our Rennes itinerary, we had two fantastic opportunities to indulge in these Breton specialties. Firstly, we visited Le Breizh Café, a chic crêperie and wine bar conceived by food entrepreneur Bertrand Larcher where they specialise in galettes, crêpes and ciders.
Le Breizh Café uses buckwheat that is locally sourced and organically grown. Their exciting menu is curated by Chef Raphaël Fumio Kudaka and fuses culinary philosophies between Brittany and Japan where buckwheat is a shared culture.
HDYTI Tip: Dinner for two (alcohol not included) = €80
The next morning, we joined queues of locals eagerly waiting to be served by one of several food trucks at Marché de Place des Lices (more on this market below). The treat? Fresh galettes (made on traditional cast iron stoves and piping hot) enjoyed street-food style.
We easily could have eaten several of the very popular ‘Galette et Saucisses’ (galette with sausages). They are that good!
HDYTI Tip: One of the best ways to enjoy a traditional Breton galette or crêpe is to accompany it with a chilled glass (or bottle) of Breton cider.
#5. Shop like a local at Marché de Place des Lices
The culmination of our visit to Rennes and one of the most enduring memories we came away with was a visit to the weekly Saturday morning farmers’ market – which happened to be located right outside our hotel.
Marché de Place des Lices (a 400 year old market tradition) can best be described as a place where you can feel the soul of Rennes and experience the colours, sounds and aromas of Brittany.
Locals and curious visitors (estimated numbers are around 10,000) show up every weekend to do their shopping in what is reputed to be the second largest market in France. The pace is relaxed but the energy is infectious!
Marché des Lices features a dizzying array of farmers, butchers, fishmongers, producers and growers selling an equally overwhelming range of fresh ingredients and food products. We really were unprepared for the selection on offer. This is another reason for us to make a return visit to Rennes!
How to do it: The market opens early and closes around 2pm. To avoid the crowds, get there between 9am and 9:30am. Go with a shopping bag because there’s a LOT of good local and regional produce to choose from.
Other culinary things to do in Rennes
Coffee and cake at Chérie Chéri
Away from busy markets, Rennes has a number of interesting cafés, boulangeries (bakeries), and patisseries (pastry shops) where you can spend some free time. Some of them, like the beautiful boutique shop we visited called Chérie Chérie, offer a chance to combine a lazy brunch with some shopping.
Lunch at Bistro Origines
A memorable lunch spot in Rennes is Bistro Origines located in Hôtel Dieu, a former maternity hospital turned entertainment, social enterprise, microbrewery and creative space. Promoting a social economy using sustainable practices is the operating philosophy of this project.
Although rather quiet when we visited at midday, Bistro Origines has a friendly, sunny and festive atmosphere. More remarkable were the flavours conjured up by the creative chef at the bistro (open for lunch and dinner); thanks in part to the freshness of the ingredients sourced from local producers. Meal for two (alcohol not included) = €60
Taste the sea at Chez Brume
Good quality fish and seafood is the soul of Chez Brume. Their menu is intentionally small (no long list of options here) and is designed to highlight fresh and seasonal ingredients locally sourced from suppliers in Brittany. The charming tortoiseshell decor and cosy atmosphere combined with flavourful dishes served to create a delightful dinner experience for us. Meal for two (alcohol not included) = €80
Drinks in the old city
When in Rennes, make time for a post-dinner walk in the streets of the old city. Head to the area around Saint-Anne, Champ-Jacquet and Rallier du Baty squares for bars with outdoor seating. Grab a cider, find a terrace and watch the city live its best nightlife!
Day trip ideas from Rennes
Take the chance to see the Emerald Coast of Brittany as part of your Rennes itinerary. Notable seaside towns include Saint Malo, Saint-Lunaire, Dinard, and Cancale. The Mont-Saint-Michel and its stunning Benedictine abbey (now a UNESCO World Heritage site) is a must-see.
We had hoped to try out land surfing (aka sand yachting) at Cherrueix but, unfortunately for us, the weather had other plans during our visit.
Where to stay
The Parenthesis Guest House is a very stylish B&B located in the village of Le Vivier-Sur-Mer. Operated by the lovely Maeva and François who reside on the property, this charming guest house offers five thoughtfully themed and spacious rooms with ample natural light.
Amenities include coffee machine, heating/air-conditioning, cotton bed linen, environmentally conscious bath products and on-site parking.
HDYTI Tip: The house can sleep 13 people (perfect for a group). Room rates start from €85 per night. Late arrivals are accommodated.
Where to eat
You know a restaurant is good when the proprietor is on first-name basis with the locals! Pascal and Léa Orticoni welcomed us with big smiles to Le Bistrot Joséphine on our final night in Brittany. This cosy bistro, overlooking the bay of Mont Saint-Michel, sources its ingredients locally and aims to maintain a light environmental footprint while doing so.
The dishes pay homage to the Breton coast with simple but creative and flavourful versions of local favourites such as ‘Joues de lotte en bouillon d’aromates’ (monkfish cheeks in herb broth served with vegetables and grilled buckwheat). This was classic bistronomy expressed beautifully! Meal for two (alcohol not included) = €80
Planning your Rennes itinerary – Travel information
EasyJet operates daily flights from London Gatwick to Rennes Airport (approximately 1 hour 15 minutes).
Multiple daily high-speed trains run from Nantes (TER) and from Paris (TGV) to Rennes.
Brittany Ferries sails from Portsmouth to Saint-Malo. From there take the TER train to Rennes.
For more independence and flexibility, pick up a rental car from Nantes.
To find out about the latest events and attractions in Rennes, download the most up-to-date city guides or plan your own Rennes itinerary, visit Destination Rennes and Brittany Tourism.
Pin this!
Related
[ad_2]
